“Rwanda? Why would you go there?” The disbelief in friends’ voices was unmistakable when we announced our adventure holiday plans. Thirty-one years after the civil war and genocide, the world’s impression of Rwanda remains frozen in that tragic moment. But the country we discovered tells a different story- one of breathtaking beauty, remarkable resilience, and genuine hope. This land of a thousand hills, draped in tea plantations, jungles, savannahs, lakes, and volcanic mountains, is nothing short of extraordinary.

Our epic journey from Toronto to Kigali stretched an exhausting 26 hours, door-to-door, including a 9-hour flight to Istanbul, a 4-hour layover, and a final 7-hour leg to Kigali, Rwanda. Thankfully, Turkish Airlines transformed the lengthy flight into an experience. As we boarded, we were greeted by an unexpected sight: chefs in chefs’ whites, busily preparing an elaborate Turkish dinner. At midnight, cruising somewhere over Newfoundland, we dined by the glow of flickering fake candles, our meal complemented by whimsical salt and pepper shakers shaped like mosques and a small box of Turkish Delight- the sweet confection that’s become synonymous with Turkish hospitality.

Istanbul Airport, considered by many to be the crossroads of the world, lived up to its reputation with gleaming, ultra-modern terminals bustling with travellers from every corner of the globe. We sought refuge in the legendary Turkish Airlines lounge, consistently ranked among the world’s best, where chef stations dotted the sprawling space, each preparing freshly made dishes for weary passengers. We sank into plush chairs, sipped reinvigorating lattes, and recharged both our devices and ourselves for the final push.

At 2:30 am, we touched down in Kigali- exhausted, exhilarated, and ready for adventure. One of our local guides, Jean-Marie, welcomed us with open arms and loaded our luggage into the back of a green Land Cruiser, our transportation for the next 10 days. Within the hour, we’d crashed into bed at The Retreat by Heaven, cocooned in mosquito netting, grateful we’d started our malaria pills two days before departure. Rwanda awaited.

We awoke the next morning to the sounds of unfamiliar birds and voices, pinching ourselves in disbelief. After a year of anticipating and planning, we had finally arrived in the heart of Africa- yet where had we landed? Rwanda sits a few degrees south of the equator, a landlocked country bordered by Tanzania, Uganda, Burundi, and the Democratic Republic of Congo. With Africa’s highest population density and one of the world’s highest population densities overall, Rwanda with 14 million people also has the youngest population globally. Four languages are spoken here: Kinyarwanda, English, French, and Swahili, with Christianity as the dominant religion. Rwanda is a world leader in gender equality in their parliament with 60% women. The total area of Rwanda is 26,338 square km- similar in size to Haiti or Vermont.

Rwanda is a country that is healing from the deep wounds of a devastating civil war and genocide thirty-one years ago. From April 7th to July 19th, 1994, an estimated 800,000 to one million Rwandans- primarily from the Tutsi ethnic group, along with moderate Hutus- were slaughtered by Hutu extremist militias. Cries for help to the international community went mostly unanswered, with a few exceptions, including Canadian Lieutenant-General Roméo Dallaire, Commander of the United Nations peacekeeping force in Rwanda. His heroic but ultimately tragic efforts to prevent the genocide are recounted in his memoir Shake Hands with the Devil and depicted in the film of the same name. In 2004, the historical drama, Hotel Rwanda, told the world the story of the genocide and the 1,200 people who sheltered at the Hotel des Mille Collines. It was here where refugees drank the water from the pool to survive when the fresh water supply was cut off.

After a day of travel, we were ready to stretch our legs, explore Kigali and start learning about Rwanda. With two days on our own before meeting our Butterfield and Robinson group, we had time to catch our breath and recover from jetlag- our usual strategy to ensure we’re ready to hit the ground running and present our best selves to our travelling companions.

We discovered a city that is lush, floral, hilly, and warm. Every block had a street cleaner sweeping leaves and debris, keeping the streets pristine. Rwanda is remarkably clean, thanks to its plastic bag ban, government- employed street cleaners, and Umuganda- a mandatory monthly community service day whose name translates to “coming together in common purpose to achieve an outcome.” On the last Saturday of each month, Rwandans spend the morning cleaning streets, building infrastructure, and strengthening community bonds.

President Paul Kagame, a former military commander who has been in power since 2000, is credited with bringing stability and economic growth to Rwanda following the genocide. In the 2024 election, he received 99.18% of the vote. All the Rwandans we spoke with held the President in high regard and expressed concern about who will be able to fill his shoes when the time comes.

During our two days on our own in Kigali, we played the role of tourist and greatly enjoyed a private tour of one of the city’s oldest and most vibrant neighborhoods- Nyamirambo. Despite the heat, most adults wore pants and long skirts, with only schoolboys wearing shorts. We may have stood out a bit in our golf attire! We respectfully asked the locals if we could take their picture, trying to capture with photographs everything that we were seeing.

We toured a women’s center where the focus is on empowering women through vocational and educational training. At the sewing school, I purchased an adorable handmade doll for a toy chest of worldly treasures I’m building for our future grandchildren. It was fascinating to visit the neighborhood shops, including a milk bar where locals who don’t have refrigerators purchase their daily milk. We visited hairdressing shops and vegetable stands, admired street art, and walked down car-free zoned streets. Our final stop was the centre’s cooking school, where we enjoyed a delicious and authentic Rwandan lunch. Our amazing local guide made us feel safe and at home in her community.

We spent a somber hour walking through the Kigali Genocide Memorial, learning more about the horrific events of 1994 and reflecting on the importance of remembrance so that history doesn’t repeat itself.

At last, we met up with our Butterfield & Robinson group. Our leader was Christine, an adventurous American who is passionate about Africa and resides in Switzerland. Two local guides would accompany us: Jean-Marie, who had welcomed us at the airport, and Pax- both wonderful and knowledgeable ambassadors for their country. Our small group of six travellers included two other couples from Houston, Texas, and New York City. Over cocktails and dinner, we quickly found connections and began swapping travel stories.

Just as we were starting to recover from jet lag, on our first full day with our group, we awoke at 4:45 am to catch an early flight to the town of Kamembe in rural southwest Rwanda. Driving from the airport to the trailhead of our first hike, we got a taste of life in the countryside, watching locals walking along the road on their way to work and school. From the start, we were made to feel welcome, with joyful shouts of hello from schoolchildren. We felt like celebrities in our enormous green trucks, waving back and beaming with pleasure, so happy to be on this adventure.

Our hike took us through a community of small homes, tea plantations, and sweet potato fields as we sauntered along well-trodden paths in a gentle rainy mist- reminiscent of the movie Gorillas in the Mist. Along the way, I was delighted to be shyly greeted by a group of adorable 3-year-olds who had wandered from their daycare playground. Our first glimpse of our hotel for the next three days, The One&Only Nyungwe House, was breathtaking! This exquisite property beckoned in the distance, nestled among tea plantations with vibrant green mountains surrounding it, adjacent to Nyungwe Park, one of Rwanda’s treasured national parks.

We visited the National Park Headquarters to learn more about Rwanda’s national parks and their efforts to stop poaching while attracting tourists. At the entrance stands a striking art installation: an enormous gorilla filled with snares, machetes, axes, and other weapons confiscated from poachers. It serves as a powerful reminder of how far this country has come in protecting its gorillas. Rwanda has four national parks, and on this trip, we would visit two- Nyungwe National Park and Volcanoes National Park. The park staff’s mandate is to protect the ecosystems while providing outdoor activities and wildlife viewing opportunities. The head park ranger was a doppelganger with Idris Elba, and he blushed when I said that he looked exactly like a famous, handsome movie star.

My screams echoed through the valleys of Nyungwe National Park during a morning of exhilarating and terrifying zip-lining high above Africa’s oldest rainforest. Paul bravely monkeyed around, showing off while going hands-free, spinning around and taking pictures. I hooted and hollered expletives and held on tight, as I stretched outside my comfort zone on three ziplines that totalled 2 km in length. Next, we hiked along a series of suspension bridges far above the jungle canopy, then climbed up a steep trail from the forest floor to where our local guides and trucks were waiting. It was a thrilling and scenic morning in the heart of Rwanda. When we returned to our cabin at the resort, our unlocked patio door was ajar, and our bowl of fruit was empty- monkey robbers had intruded while we were gone… such is life in the jungle! Massages, a cooking lesson, delicious meals, and an evening performance of African music by local performers all made for an absolutely perfect day.

It was another early start the next morning (such as it often is with group travel) as our group set out for our chimpanzee trek. We had a bit of a drive ahead of us, including a very bumpy final stretch of dirt road, to reach the trekking centre by sunrise. We were each assigned a porter to carry our daypacks, along with one park guide and several chimpanzee trackers. We quietly marched into the jungle in single file, excitedly listening for the grunts, hoots, screeches, and whimpers of the chimpanzees. None of us were quite sure what to expect.

Trackers had gone ahead of our group, looking for the nests in trees that the chimpanzees had built and slept in the previous night. Within 30 minutes, we got word that they had found some of the large family we were seeking. We left the path and made our way deeper into the jungle- through mud, over slippery roots and rocks, ducking under hanging vines. At last we came upon six chimpanzees high in a tree, feasting on figs for breakfast (chimpanzees are omnivores and occasionally eat smaller creatures, including monkeys). Soon they became more playful and curious, calling out to one another. Paul got a little too close under one tree trying to get the perfect picture and was showered with pee- that said, he did get many incredible pictures!

It was fascinating watching these large, beautiful creatures that weigh 60-140 pounds, share 99% of our human DNA, and are known for using tools such as sticks to solve problems. After two incredible hours in the jungle, just as it was time to make our way back to our trucks, a troop noisily rushed by us on the trail- what a thrill! Minutes later, we came upon ten chimpanzees hanging out on the trail- and the only way back to our trucks. We couldn’t believe our eyes- we were just steps away and they were completely ignoring us. We were happily stuck on the trail, snapping pictures and observing for another 30 minutes, pinching ourselves. This extraordinary morning will be on the highlight reel of my life!

The next morning, dressed in official white factory uniforms, we toured the Gisakura Tea Company’s production facility near our hotel. After spending three days at a resort nestled in a tea plantation- a location with plentiful rainfall, high altitude, and fertile soil that creates ideal tea-growing conditions- it was fascinating to learn about the tea-making process from field to shipping. Surprisingly, all tea comes from a single plant species, and it’s the varying processing methods that create the different finished products. I was most impressed by the young women who were working in the tea fields, while carrying a young babies on their backs.

Paul and I love hiking and always seize the opportunity to get our heart rates elevated while hiking a scenic trail. Following our tea factory tour, we headed across the tea fields with Jean-Marie and a park ranger for an out-and-back hike down a steep rainforest ravine to the spectacular 17-metre high Isumo Waterfalls. The combination of exertion, sunshine, and pristine Rwandan wilderness made it exhilarating. We didn’t see any other hikers on the trail, and our steady, fast pace actually winded the park ranger, who struggled to keep up! This is one of the great joys of group travel—discovering hidden hikes and backroad paths we’d never find on our own.

With an active morning and a delicious final lunch at the One&Only behind us, we settled into our Land Cruiser for the transfer to Cleo Lake Kivu Hotel. Along the way, we passed rice paddies, banana plantations, and flowering hibiscus trees. It was a Sunday afternoon, and the roadsides bustled with locals walking home from church, all dressed in their Sunday best. We drove along a new highway recently built by the Chinese—the China Road and Bridge Corporation has constructed 70% of all asphalt roads in Rwanda, boosting local economies and enhancing tourism.

Driving here is not for the faint of heart. Local buses barrel down the middle of the road at top speed, heavy trucks labour up steep hills, and locals on bikes and on foot crowd the shoulders. Thankfully, Jean-Marie and Pax were excellent drivers who never took unnecessary risks. Our travel doctor at home had warned us that traffic accidents are the leading cause of death for tourists in Africa. I sat quietly in my second-row seat, gripping tight, taking deep breaths, and doing my best to avoid carsickness.

Our room at Cleo Lake Kivu Hotel had an unbelievable view of Lake Kivu. Considered one of Africa’s Great Lakes, Lake Kivu stretches 42 km in length and 50 km in width, plunging to 475 m at its deepest point. The lake is surrounded by the region’s famous hills and dormant volcanoes, while on the opposite shore lies the DRC (Congo), where a red zone for Americans remains in effect following recent conflict. Yet at no point on our trip did we see any signs of the conflict or feel unsafe—in fact, staring out at the view, we felt like we had arrived in paradise!

I had never imagined such a large and beautiful lake in the middle of Rwanda. With local fishermen on a month-long hiatus and few recreational boats on the water, the lake felt eerily quiet and so different from the big lakes in cottage country back home. At sunset, our group took a cruise to admire the dramatic landscape and the magnificent homes perched high above the shore.

The next day, our group set out in the hotel’s boat to a destination 12 km down the lake. One km offshore from our destination, the boat started smoking and conked out. As we drifted toward shore, our boat captain stripped to his underwear, jumped in, and did his best to keep us from hitting a rocky shoal on a tiny island while waiting for a local boat to tow us to safety. Some of us may have been humming, “If not for the courage of the fearless crew, the Minnow would be lost”.

Once on shore, we broke into groups to hike a section of the Congo-Nile Trail. Paul and I set off on our own with Pax, one of our local guides. We hiked past coffee plantations, small villages, and schools, saying hello to countless children who were excited and some quite frightened (hiding and crying behind their mothers’ skirts) to see foreign hikers marching through their villages. We received countless choruses of “hello,” lots of high fives, and many requests for money from cheeky young boys who shouted, “Money, money, money!” as we passed by. I was impressed by the women carrying young babies bound to their backs while balancing bags of potatoes on their heads. We encountered a group of young mothers, returning from a meeting for new mothers at the local hospital, all with adorable babies bound to their backs- they graciously paused and allowed us to admire their very sweet babies. A tour of a small coffee farm completed our afternoon before we headed back to the hotel in a different boat than the one we’d arrived in.

Before saying goodbye to beautiful Lake Kivu and ahead of a long 4-hour drive to our next hotel, we rose at sunrise for another big hike, this time accompanied by Christine, our B&R guide, and a park ranger. Rwandans are early risers, and we enjoyed watching locals starting their days- tending their crops and heading off to work or school. The hilly terrain and high elevation got our hearts pounding, the views were breathtaking, and we felt invigorated when we took off our shoes and waded through a rushing river. I couldn’t have asked for a better start to our day!

Halfway through the long drive, we stopped for lunch in Mugongo at the former home of Rosamund Carr, an American-born hero of the genocide. In December 1994, at age 82, Rosamund—known as Roz—took in 120 orphans to live and be raised on her flower plantation. We met a man named Gadi who, at age 3, was one of those orphans. Now a well-spoken young man with a family of his own, Gadi, a professional photographer, is making a documentary about Roz, and he shared the trailer with our group. It was incredibly moving, and we hope to see the film at the Toronto International Film Festival next year.

For survivors of the genocide, the topic is still extremely raw and difficult to discuss. An entire generation was wiped out, and it will take decades for this nation to recover. I observed that there are few Rwandans my age and a generation of 30-somethings who grew up without parents. The stories about the genocide need to be retold so that history doesn’t repeat itself. Back in our trucks, we all quietly processed our visit with Gadi and the tour of the orphanage museum as we drove the final leg into the foothills of the Virunga Mountains.

Our final hotel of our B&R trip was the luxurious Wilderness Sabyinyo Lodge overlooking Volcanoes National Park. We were welcomed in the parking lot with a rousing song and dance routine by the mostly local staff, before we headed up the 185 steps to the main lodge, breathing hard as we checked in at 2,500 metres above sea level. This community owned lodge proudly provides a truly authentic Rwandan experience. Another 60 steps above the lodge sat our exquisite cabin, where every detail of décor was carefully considered, including a roaring fire, plush throw blankets, hot water bottles at night and a basket for our laundry- a service included with our stay. At night we were escorted by a security guard to and from the main lodge, just in case a woodland buffalo happened to be on the path- it was all incredible!

At last, it was time for the pinnacle event of our entire trip- gorilla trekking! We arose at 5:15 am for an early departure to the Volcanoes National Park Headquarters, where we would meet our local gorilla guide and be assigned our gorilla family and hiking route. People from all over the world were waiting, dressed in safari clothing and ready for adventure. Gorilla trekking is big business in Rwanda. Mountain gorillas are located in just three countries in the world- Rwanda, Uganda, and the DRC (Congo)—and all three of these countries border one another with adjacent parks including Virunga National Park in the DRC and Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in Uganda. There is an estimated total of 1000 mountain gorillas in the world today. They live in the wild, where many have been habituated (made familiar with humans) and are closely monitored by park staff. There are 14 gorilla families living in Volcanoes National Park, which is 160 square km in size. We went on two gorilla treks and visited the Agashya family and the Umubano family.

Dian Fossey arrived in Rwanda and the Congo in 1967 to do research on mountain gorillas and is ultimately credited with saving them from extinction by bringing their plight to the attention of the international community. At that time, the gorilla population was 250 and rapidly declining due to poaching- for bushmeat, for body parts for collectors, for use in traditional medicine, or for illegal trade of the babies. Dian was murdered in 1985, most likely by poachers whom she was fighting against. The award-winning movie Gorillas in the Mist tells Dian Fossey’s story and had scenes filmed at Rosamund Carr’s home, where actress Sigourney Weaver stayed during the filming of the movie.

As a lifelong animal lover, I was beyond thrilled to be in Rwanda, trekking through the jungle to observe mountain gorillas. On our first day, we were assigned a family with several young gorillas and babies. After being driven to a drop-off point near the National Park, we set out with porters carrying our daypacks. Our climb began along narrow paths beside glorious fields of Pyrethrum daisies, a plant that thrives in the rich volcanic soil and is used as a natural insecticide. The hour-long hike, with a slow and steady pace, wasn’t too challenging until our guide received word from the trackers- we were close. Leaving the trail, we pushed into the bush onto more difficult terrain, as trackers cleared our path with machetes. We wore mandatory face-masks to protect the gorillas from human germs.

My jaw dropped as two young gorillas walked directly in front of us, followed by the dominant silverback- an older male typically weighing 430 pounds, standing 5 feet tall, and living 40 to 50 years. We took countless pictures but also tried to stay present and simply observe. Our park guide monitored our interactions carefully, keeping us at a safe distance while steering us toward as many gorillas as possible. One of my favourites was a young gorilla, perched in a tree with his mother, as fascinated by us as we were by him.

The following morning, as we set off on our second trek, we were even more excited, knowing what awaited us. Today’s family included six silverbacks (the dominant male plus five subordinates), females, and younger male gorillas called blackbacks. In gorilla families, the dominant silverback rises to dominance because of his age, strength, and social intelligence. This male has exclusive breeding rights with the females in his family. The older males all displayed the pronounced silver hair on their backs that gives them the name. As we trekked along, I lovingly teased Paul about how he is the silverback in our family.

This trek was more challenging: farther, steeper, and ending with a miserable push through stinging nettle bushes. Despite the warm day, we wore long pants, gaiters, long sleeves, and gardening gloves for protection. Our guide was Francoise, the most senior in the park- quite the character with a remarkable ability to “speak gorilla.” Francoise made this visit even more special with his stories, gorilla antics and his demonstration of how gorillas eat wild celery. Surprisingly many of the guides, trackers and park rangers, including Francoise, are former poachers. These individuals who once threatened the gorilla population are now their protectors- now equipped with stable livelihoods.

We had one hour with this family and got incredibly close, watching them eat and interact with one another. The enormous dominant silverback held court, sitting like a king on his throne, while keeping an eye on Francoise as we took pictures of him. At one point the silverback had had enough, and he suddenly charged down the path right in front of us- our group spilled over one another like dominoes, scrambling out of the way. A few minutes later, a subordinate silverback pushed along the narrow path and body-checked Paul as he went by. My heart pounded with excitement and, I admit, a bit of fright- though Francoise assured us we were never in danger. Our two days with the mountain gorillas were absolutely remarkable. I loved every minute.

We said farewell to our fellow travellers at a lovely “farm to fork” dinner at Virunga Mountain Spirits, a local vodka distillery in Musanze. The main product at this artisanal distillery is Kari Vodka, a premium “sipping vodka” made from “unloved potatoes”—potatoes from local fields that are too small or misshapen and might otherwise go to waste. I enjoyed hearing the entrepreneurial story behind the distillery’s growth, led by an intelligent American woman with a mission of empowering local women. Our group savoured a delicious meal and shared our favourite moments from our incredible 10 days together.

Serendipity presented itself on our final day in Rwanda as we headed to Kigali for our very late 1:45 am flight to Istanbul. Rather than nap in a hotel, we played a round of golf at the Kigali Golf Resort, a Gary Player-designed course in the heart of Kigali. As we golfed, cyclists from around the world raced in the UCI Road World Championships on a loop around the perimeter of the course. The golf club had chic locker rooms for showering, a clubhouse with comfy couches and big-screen TVs for watching golf, and a beautiful open-air dining room where we enjoyed our final Rwandan meal, relishing our last breaths of warm African air. At last, we boarded our 8-hour Turkish Airlines flight to Istanbul, with one stop in Uganda.

Exotic Istanbul is a fascinating city of 20 million people, that spans two continents- Europe and Asia.  We stayed at The Peninsula Hotel on Istanbul’s European side in a room overlooking the Bosporus Strait, an international navigation waterway that connects the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea. Two enormous cruise ships were anchored just 200 meters from our hotel, and all day long, ferries crisscrossed the waterway carrying tourists and residents between the European and Asian shores. Further down the strait, hundreds of container ships travel the busy route daily, carrying cargo from Russia, Ukraine, Georgia, and Bulgaria. We were mesmerized from our balcony perch, watching the endless parade of activity below. Calls to prayer from dawn to night reminded us that we were far from home.

We hired a private guide, Seema, for a walking tour on our first full day in Istanbul, and she was determined to pack as much as possible into our three hours. At the Blue Mosque, an 17^th century Ottoman building famous for its blue tiles and six minarets, an enormous line stretched in front of us. Seema instructed me to put on my headscarf and directed us to the line designated for Muslims, which would fast-track us inside. I felt conflicted about this, but she was insistent. Following Paul into line as he mumbled, “We are Muslims from Canada,” It was an uncomfortable moment that I instantly regretted- that said, the mosque was magnificent!   Next, we whisked through the Basilica Cistern- this incredible underground historical cistern from the Byzantine Era. We whirled through bustling narrow streets, where Turkish carpets and pottery took centre stage and beautiful stray cats wandered freely before Seema ushered us into a busy local restaurant, that she proudly declared to be the best lunch spot in the city. Without hesitation, Seema elbowed her way to the front of the line and secured the prime table for us. There, we enjoyed the best meal of our Istanbul stay: hummus topped with arugula and pomegranate, succulent chicken kebabs (locally known as shish), and muhammara, a rich dip made with walnuts, red peppers, pomegranate, and breadcrumbs. Apple baklava and vanilla ice cream, compliments of the generous restaurant owner, nearly finished us off. We walked the 5 kilometers back to our hotel, digesting our feast while reflecting on a fascinating day.

Our three days in Istanbul also included a scenic boat cruise along the Bosporus, extensive walks through the city, and a luxurious visit to our hotel’s traditional Turkish hammam. Paul and I indulged in the couples’ experience, where, in a marble-clad private room, we were scrubbed, lathered, soaked, and moisturized until we emerged feeling completely refreshed, relaxed, and rejuvenated. Before heading to the airport for the final leg of our journey home, we settled onto the hotel’s sunny outdoor patio overlooking the harbour with traditional baklava and lattes in hand, so grateful we’d decided to add this brief Istanbul stopover—it truly was a Turkish delight!

From the land of a thousand hills to the crossroads of continents, our 17-day odyssey etched itself into our souls. Rwanda taught us about resilience and beauty as we hiked through vibrant tea plantations, small villages, misty jungles and amongst volcanic mountains. Gorilla and chimpanzee treks took our breath away. The warm welcome and excited shouts of “hello” from children in Rwandan communities opened our hearts. We savoured every morsel of baklava, indulged in Istanbul’s wonders, and were mesmerized watching the world sail past our balcony, vowing to return to Turkey for a longer visit. We came home with countless photos, plenty of stories and so many happy memories. If Rwanda isn’t already on your travel bucket list, it absolutely should be- it truly is remarkable!