I have been in my book club since 2002, when a good friend gathered a group of like-minded women to meet monthly and discuss books. Many of us had put our careers on hold to raise our families and support our ambitious and hard-working husbands, as their careers soared. We were living within blocks of one another, with children the same ages. Early on, we determined as a group, that women can have it all, just not all at once. We were lawyers, a teacher, a dietitian, a podiatrist, businesswomen, and a professional gardener. We craved intellectual discussions, political debate, and camaraderie. Twenty years later, we greatly looked forward to our monthly get-togethers, where we share a meal and some wine, get caught up with family news, debate current events and discuss books. We have read over 200 books together and along the way, we have supported one another through joy, loss, heartbreak, child-rearing, life achievements and the celebration of many milestones.

In November 2019, one of the gals in the book club invited the group to spend a week in Croatia, where she and her husband had recently built their dream vacation home. Without hesitation, we all said, “Yes!” With excitement and anticipation, we circled September 2020 in our calendars and decided to wait to finalize the details. Then the pandemic hit, and world travel came to an abrupt halt. Our book club meetings became Zoom affairs or outdoor meetings around gas fireplaces, yet we kept reading, talking, sharing, and supporting one another. Fast forward to March 2022, the generous invitation was extended again, a date was set, and we booked our flights. Our book club (minus one member, who could not join us) was going to Croatia and we could hardly wait!

We met in the Toronto Airport, carry-on luggage in hand, wearing masks and jittery with nervous excitement. Travel had changed so much during the pandemic, and we could not believe that the moment had finally arrived when we would head off on our adventure together in Croatia. I trusted that we hadn’t forgotten how to socialize, during the long lockdown days and I hoped we would all get along- seven determined, outgoing, and strong-minded women.  We flew to Dubrovnik, with a brief layover in Vienna. In Europe, no-one was wearing masks except our group. In Canada, it was still a law that one must wear a mask to travel on a plane or within an airport, and none of us felt comfortable shedding that protective shield. None of us wanted to catch COVID and spoil our much-anticipated holiday.

The transfer to our friend’s home on Lopud Island felt like a dream. Perhaps it was the jetlag, or perhaps Croatia is just that beautiful! The Adriatic Sea sparkled, the Cypress trees towered and swayed, and dust rose from the distant limestone quarries, as our driver expertly drove the winding coastal highway to the port where a boat was waiting to whisk us to paradise. I sat on the back of the boat above the engine, keeping an eye on the shoreline and preparing myself for seasickness that never came. I held on tight as the boat captain pulled the throttle and roared towards our destination. It was a perfect weather day- 30 c, blue skies, and sunshine. Our radiant host stood on the pier welcoming us, and we felt like celebrities, as we disembarked the sleek, black “James Bond” boat, all while taking in the gorgeous sea-side village, our home for the next week.

Lopud Island is located 14 km south of Dubrovnik and is part of the Elafiti archipelago. It is a small island, just under 5 square km and at one time years ago, was covered with olive groves. A beautifully restored 15^th century Franciscan monastery stands guard, overlooking the port. Lopud Island has one of the nicest sandy beaches in all of Croatia, called Sunj Beach and ferry boats with tourists and locals destined for the beach arrive each morning. There are plenty of trails for hiking, including a winding trail through a forest of pine and carob trees to the highest point on the island, the ruins of an old fort. Cars are not allowed on the island, making it the perfect spot for people who like to walk.

I had no idea how amazing the food and wine would be in Croatia until our first night. It had been a very long day, with our overnight flight and very little sleep, yet our group had all gained a second wind, we were full of energy and so excited to be here.  We walked into the village for dinner at one of our host’s favourite restaurants, Obala. We shared a large seafood platter that included John Dory snapper, swordfish carpaccio and octopus salad in scallop shells. We had our first taste of Croatian Rosé, and we were hooked! Croatian Rosé would be our preferred beverage for the rest of the week and Zivjeli (ji-vo-li), cheers in Croatian, our common refrain.  The finale to the meal, a house special, were crepes filled with Nutella, which were surprisingly amazing! We sleepily made our way “home”, ready for a much-needed deep sleep, and ready to dream of many adventures ahead.

Our host planned incredible activities for each day of our visit. On our first full day, we boarded a large boat with two crew, ready for a relaxing day of floating on the Adriatic Sea. Our first destination was the Blue Cave, on the near-by island of Bisevo. We headed there early in the day to beat the throngs of tourist boats who visit each day. The sea cave is accessed by swimming through a small opening. The mesmerizing blue hue is created when sunlight is reflected off the limestone floor of the cave. We felt like teenagers, jumping off the back of the boat into the warm and salty sea and this wonderful feeling continued for the rest of the day. Next, we anchored near the Sunj Beach for more swimming and stand-up paddle boarding. Before we knew it, it was noon and time for another sumptuous Croatian meal. Our captain drove our boat to the near-by island of Sipan, for lunch at Markas Konoba Kod. As we walked along the cobble-stone sidewalk, I took a picture of an adorable Schnauzer, for my Dogs of the World collection. We stopped to watch a man who was cleaning a large sea bass, that would be our lunch, along with octopus cakes and other Croatian delicacies. It was another magical moment as we settled into our outdoor dining spot, facing the Bay of Sipanska Luka, and sipping on delicious Croatian Rosé. After 24-hours in paradise, we all completely understood why our friend and her husband had built their vacation home here- it is spectacular!

Following lunch and a stroll along the waterfront, we set-off on our boat once again, in search of a tranquil location to anchor and enjoy the afternoon sun. We cruised by hillsides of olive trees and fig trees and found a quiet cove.  We jumped into the sea, relishing the buoyancy of the warm salt water, and then while treading water, we chatted for over an hour, with our favourite tunes playing in the background. We laughed hysterically when one gal jumped on a paddle board and performed a dance to Abba’s Dancing Queen. We arrived home to the delicious smells of a traditional Croatian dinner, Peka, cooking in a cast iron pot on an outdoor fireplace. Peka is a roasted meal, of chicken and veal with assorted vegetables. Sun-kissed and giddy from our perfect day, we danced and sang along to Cher’s Believe as we cleaned-up the kitchen and headed to bed.

The next day, our host planned an excursion to a near-by wine region in South-Central Dalmatia between Dubrovnik and Split. We boated to the mainland where a large van waited to drive us to our host’s three favourite vineyards. The first stop was Villa Korta Katerina, a Relais and Chateaux near the town of Orebic and owned by an American expatriate couple. Overlooking the sea, this property is dazzling! We toured the wine storage facility and had a brief lesson on how this vineyard produces its wine. While seated on a terrace overlooking the vineyards and the sea, we raised our glasses for the first of many “Zivjelis” of the day. This special place is somewhere I would like to return and stay with Paul.

Our driver headed away from the sea and into the hills for our lunch destination, the Saints Hills Winery in Oskorusno. We settled into the elegant, stone-walled dining room ready to experience an exceptional tasting menu from the land and sea and prepared for many Zivjelis while tasting the vineyard’s best wines. Foie gras risotto balls and chocolate orange tartufo are etched in my memory as the highlights of the meal. A tour of the Saints Hills production facility further educated us on wine production in Croatia.  Our host suggested one more stop at another vineyard that couldn’t be missed, The Grgic Winery located on the Peljesac Penisula, near Trstennik. The founder of this winery, Miljenko “Mike” Grgic has also made a name for himself in Napa Valley. We reclined in comfy outdoor couches overlooking the sea, enjoying the afternoon sun, as we sleepily chorused Zivjeli and slowly sipped our final tasting of the day.

We were a quiet and relaxed group as our van drove us back to our port. We made a brief stop in a town called Ston, to purchase some salt and gaze at the dramatic stone wall above the town. Ston is a fortified town on the edge of the sea, surrounded by hills. The original stone wall was 7 km in length and is now the longest preserved fortification system in the world, built to defend the Republic of Dubrovnik, the peninsula, and the town and to protect the salt pans. The 400-year-old salt pans are the oldest salt pans in Europe. At one time, long ago, salt was as valuable as gold. It was late in the day as we wandered through the cobble-stone paths of the town. I made a metal note to return one day and walk the wall and tour the salt pans, without so many Zivjelis under my belt!

We had a quieter day planned the next day, so that we could enjoy the beauty of Lopud Island and relax around the pool. A couple of the gals and I started our day with a brisk hike to the lookout at the top of the island and the crumbling ruins of Fortress Sutvrac and the Church of St. John, 214 m above sea level. The fortress was built as a lookout and for protection against the Ottoman Turks and the pirates of the Adriatic Sea. It was another perfect weather day, and the view from the top was breath-taking.  Through a peephole, I took the quintessential picture of the Adriatic Sea with sailboats bobbing in the distance. We made our way down the hill to a path that led to town and a bakery with delicious pastries for our breakfast. Our host had booked a masseuse for the day, and she was set-up on the pool patio, starting to work her magic on our tired muscles.  While we waited for our turn, we relaxed in the shade and discussed our trip book, Girl at War by Sara Novic, a story about a young girl during the Yugoslavian Civil War. Ping pong, bocce ball and pool volleyball rounded out our blissful afternoon. A delicious meal at LaVilla, another one of our host’s favourite restaurants, in the village of Lopud, was the perfect finish to a spectacular day.

For our final full day with our hosts, our “James Bond” boat picked us up for a Robinson Crusoe kind of day. We were heading to BOWA, a secluded restaurant on the near-by Island of Sipan. The name BOWA is the acronym for the Best of What’s Around. The website describes it well: “Inspired by local ingredients, driven by love of leisure, united with nature, touched by passion and commitment to food”. Located 17 km northwest of Dubrovnik, locals and tourists make up the clientele. Our group belted out Croatian folk songs as our boat landed at BOWA’s dock, ready to be castaways for the day, on this beautiful Elaphiti island. We settled into our sea-side cabana, surrounded by carob, fig, and olive trees. Platters of delicious food and chilled bottles of rosé soon filled the table. How would we ever describe the magic of this place to our families and friends when we returned home?

Before we knew it, our last day on Lopud Island arrived. A few of us got up early for a final trek to the ruins at the top of the island, taking in the views one more time. Our hosts arranged a tour of the recently restored 15^th century Franciscan Monastery, known on luxury hotel websites as Lopud-1483 (denoting the year it was built).  This beautiful gem was the location of the Ponta Lopud Film Festival, just months before our visit. A tour guide led our group through the peaceful gardens and sophisticated ancient hallways, explaining how Francesca Thysssen-Bornemisza, a Swiss-born art visionary, purchased and renovated the monastery. We all felt fortunate to have a private tour of this exclusive property and dreamed of one day staying here for a mere $10,000 a night.

We waved good-bye to beautiful Lopud Island as our boat whisked us towards Dubrovnik under sunny skies and through the choppy Adriatic Sea. I sat up front beside the captain, keeping my eye on the shoreline and enjoying the bounce from the waves. We sung our hearts out, showing off our new knowledge of Croatian music as our boat docked in the old harbour of Dubrovnik. I felt like I was stepping inside a scene in a fairy tale. Dubrovnik was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its outstanding medieval architecture and fortified old town. A 2 km long and 4-metre-thick stone wall surrounds the old town, and within the walls, the buildings are made of stone and adorned with green shutters and terra cotta clay roofs. This city has a long and complicated history, most recently with the Croatian War of Independence in 1991. Now, Dubrovnik is one of the Mediterranean’s top tourist destinations and a popular filming location, including the Game of Thrones series.

Our group walked towards the old town centre for our lunch at our host’s favourite Dubrovnik restaurant, Rozario. Along the way, we visited a small gallery with photos of soldiers who had lost their lives while fighting for Croatia’s liberation from Yugoslavia. There is so much history in this place and I did my best to absorb facts and sites as we walked through the town. It is hard to comprehend the devastation that took place here only thirty years ago. Following a delicious lunch on an outdoor patio, in the heart of the old town, a tour guide took our group on a walking tour. The streets were bustling with tourists and locals alike, all enjoying the beautiful September day. Our guide told us that it had been much hotter and busier, just weeks before and we had picked a good time to visit. I cannot wait to return to this beautiful country and explore it further.

I hope our host knows how much we all LOVED our time in Croatia and on Lopud Island. We had a remarkable week of adventure, delicious local food and wine, lots of laughs, heartfelt discussions and we made many wonderful memories. I feel so lucky to have these incredible women in my life! To my book club- I will see you next month, when we will discuss a book, share a meal, debate current events and most importantly, enjoy our time together. Zivjeli!