In July 2006, our family travelled to Newfoundland for an adventurous family holiday. Little did we know at the time, soon Newfoundland would become a place of business and regular visits for Paul for the next ten years and an annual destination for me. In our travels to Newfoundland, we have visited only a small portion of this incredible island. I am often asked for tips on travelling to Newfoundland, however, I can only share and recommend with you the parts that I know. That said, I can tell you this- after you travel to Newfoundland, you will leave feeling like you belong and you will want to return. It is a very special place.

The flight from Toronto to St. John’s, Newfoundland is just under 3 hours in length. When you arrive, set your watch ahead 1 ½ hours to Newfoundland Standard Time. St. John’s is a small city and the airport is an easy 15-minute drive to downtown. We always stay at the Sheridan Hotel. It is well located and predictable. We ask for a room on the harbour side, as the view is spectacular. Paul has tried all of the boutique hotels in St. John’s, yet he always returns to the Sheridan. It is not fancy, but it works!

For most of my visits, Paul had to work for a few days, so I was left to my own devices. One of my favourite things to do in St. John’s is to get outside and start walking. Newfoundland is nicknamed, The Rock, due the very rocky and rugged landscape. The hiking trails around the rocky and dramatic Signal Hill are some of the best in Canada. Beginning at the hotel, I would walk along Outer Battery Road, past colourful clapboard homes and stunning views of The Narrows and St. John’s Harbour. The trail is well maintained, yet there are a lot of stairs and it can be quite wind swept. At one point the path is narrow and there is a steep drop to the water below-thankfully, there is a chain to hold on to! In the late spring, icebergs float by Signal Hill. In the early summer, if the capelin (small fish that whales feed on) are in, and with some luck, one can see whales blowing off shore- magical! I usually walk alone, and have never felt unsafe. One day I walked around Signal Hill and over to the fishing village of Quidi Vidi and then back to the city-centre along a city walking trail. With time on my hands, I just kept going and going, never too concerned that I would get lost. If I ever needed help with directions, a friendly local was always willing to take time to point me in the right direction. In downtown St. John’s, look for the statue of Terry Fox, commemorating the start of his Marathon of Hope. Terry dipped his artificial leg into the Atlantic Ocean on April 12^th, 1980 and then began his journey. Also search for the statues of the Labrador and Newfoundland dogs and read the delightful poem, “Epitaph to a Dog”.

The weather can be variable, so bring layers and waterproof hiking shoes. One July, I left Toronto where there was a heat emergency in effect and arrived in St. John’s to find people wearing winter coats!! Over the two weeks we spent in Newfoundland with our kids, we had blue skies and sunshine every day. It was 25 c, and the locals were melting! If you don’t like the weather, just wait five minutes. In Newfoundland they say, there isn’t such a thing as bad weather, just bad clothing.

One time, Paul and I were in St. John’s in mid-December to attend some company Christmas parties. We spent the morning hiking the rugged East Coast Trail and ended up in Quidi Vidi at 1 pm, ready for lunch. We managed to get a last-minute reservation at rustic Mallard Cottage, located in one of the oldest wooden structures in North America and considered one of Canada’s top restaurants. I was thrilled to hear that they were serving brunch for lunch- my favourite kind of meal. Paul and I could not decide what to have because everything sounded so appealing, so we decided to share the Chef’s Selection and the Bread Pudding French Toast (we had been hiking all morning, after all). We devoured the delicious food and the casual atmosphere was perfect for us, as we were in our hiking clothes. The decor is so fun, whimsical and homey and the vibe is so relaxed. This place is popular and reservations (even weeks in advance) are highly recommended.

A few days after our decadent feast at Mallard’s Cottage, we were sitting on the tarmac at the airport ready to head home. After waiting for over an hour to take-off, the pilot made an announcement that the airport had just closed due to an intensifying blizzard. No sooner had the announcement ended, when I asked Paul to please call Mallard Cottage to see if we could get another last-minute reservation. If we were snowed-in in St. John’s, we had to make the most of it and another visit to this delightful restaurant would quickly turn lemons into lemonade. Sure enough, there had been cancellations due to the weather and we got a reservation. A skilled taxi driver got us through the snow to the restaurant, where we had a private, candle-lit room with our own wood-burning fire. As the lights flickered and a power-outage threatened, we ordered the Chef’s Tasting Menu and had another sumptuous meal that included delectable scallops and succulent cod.

It is hard to have a bad meal in Newfoundland. In fact, St. John’s has become a foodie destination and a few restaurants were profiled on the Anthony Bourdain show, Parts Unknown, that aired just weeks before his death. On this same pre-Christmas visit, we met some local friends at their favourite restaurant, Raymonds, on Water Street. The art-filled dining room is elegant and I enjoyed the circular table for six, where we could all participate in a conversation. Our friends, who are regulars at this restaurant, recommended the five-course tasting menu. Each unique Newfoundland dish was stylishly presented and absolutely delicious. I loved the moose and the cod, however the delicious fresh scallops put the meal over the top! Raymonds is ranked as one of the best restaurants in Canada and is in the top 50 in the world. Other restaurants to include while visiting St. John’s are: Merchant Tavern, Bacalao, Blue on Water and Basho. Be sure to visit a pub and hear a live band playing Newfoundland music. If you love seafood, you will love eating in Newfoundland!

We first discovered Trinity Bay and Port Rexton when we travelled to Newfoundland with the kids in 2006. We rented a cozy cottage called Skerwink House in Port Rexton for one week at the beginning of July. As soon as the groceries were put away, we headed out onto the Skerwink Trail, just steps from our cottage to stretch our legs and explore. The Skerwink Trail is considered to be one of the top hikes in North America. This cliff-top hike is not for the faint of heart and this mom had to be clear with her rambunctious boys, that they were to take the dangers seriously. The views are breathtaking along the 5-km trail. We could not believe our luck- the capelin were in and whales were having a feeding frenzy close to shore. We quickly learned how to spot the whales by the mist from their blows. One day we were treated to a whale breaching in the cove behind our cottage- incredible!

We had just lost our old dog Paisley the month before, leaving us with our four-year-old black lab Lucy. The kids really wanted to get another dog, yet two labs in the house had been a lot of dog, so we were considering other breeds! It was on the Skerwink Trail that we crossed paths with a couple from Maine, who were hiking with their two border terriers. We had never seen this breed of dog before and we were immediately intrigued. Here was a small dog, out hiking and enjoying the outdoors. This was the dog for us! Lexi was like a dog with a bone, once we showed a small amount of interest. By the end of that summer, after Lexi’s diligent sleuthing, we found and adopted a border terrier puppy whom we named Happy. Happy loved been out on the trail, yet was just as happy snuggled up on the couch with us watching tv. Happy and Lucy became best friends, and they were the perfect blend of big and small dogs.

Just down the road from Skerwink House is one of my favourite inns in the world, the Fishers’ Loft. We have stayed at this inn many times over the years, mostly spending long weekends following Paul’s board meetings in St. John’s, that conveniently coincided with when the kids were away at summer camp. There is so much that makes this inn the perfect weekend getaway destination. The food is exquisite, with freshly caught fish, creative healthy side dishes and delicious homemade desserts.  The rooms are lovely and comfortable, with cozy duvets for chilly nights and tremendous views. I loved hearing the sound of the faraway fog-horn on foggy nights.

The town of Trinity has several fine restaurants, a few shops with local crafts and some outfits for whale watching. We have used Sea of Whales Adventures several times and have always seen whales. This company provides survival suits and uses zodiac boats. The ocean can get rough, so wait for a calm day or bring your seasickness medicine.  We always try to take in a show at the Rising Tide Theatre, and our favourite show is The Pageant, an interactive production that takes you on a historical journey through the town.We love the food at the Fishers’ Loft, however to mix it up we will dine at The Twine Loft in town. A simple and delicious lunch can be found at Two Whales Coffee Shop in Port Rexton.

A short road trip to Bonavista is worthwhile, especially if you grew up singing the song, “This Land is My Land” with the verse that includes, “This land is your land; This land is my land; From Bonavista, to the Vancouver Islands…” Visit the replica of John Cabot’s boat, The Matthew. John Cabot discovered North America when he landed here in 1497. Hike around the lighthouse and watch for whales. Take the scenic route back to Trinity and stop by the small town of Elliston where there is a puffin colony with more puffins than you can count. Visit the Random Passage Site, where the movie was made. Before you go, read the fabulous historical fiction book called “Random Passage” by Bernice Morgan and learn about the early settlers of Newfoundland.

As regular visitors to Newfoundland, we were often asked if we had been to Fogo Island. In 2016, we decided it was time to mix it up and make our way to this famous travel destination. It was the year we were both turning 50, so what the heck- YOLO! Located on an island, off an island, it is a bit of a challenge to get to the Fogo Island Inn. We flew from St. John’s to Gander, where we were met by a driver and driven to the ferry approximately 80 minutes away. The ferry ride took about an hour and then there was a 20-minute drive from the ferry to the inn. Not too bad, if everything is running on time and the weather cooperates. On our way home, we decided to pay a little extra for a thrilling helicopter ride from the Inn to Gander. We gained several more hours of time on Fogo Island and one more meal at the Inn- it was worth it!

Until we arrived, I did not know how outstanding the hiking on Fogo Island would be. We hiked every day and each hike was spectacular. My favourite hike was the Lion’s Den hike, with beautiful lookouts. I also loved Brimstone Head/ Fogo Head, Joe Batt’s Point and Turpin’s Trail West. We hadn’t realized that the hiking trails were not right at the inn’s doorstep and we had not rented a car. No problem, we were loaned one of the inn’s car whenever we wanted to leave the property- pretty awesome! We enjoyed soaking in the rooftop hot-tub at the end of each day and one night we watched a documentary about the making of the inn, in the inn’s theatre.

One afternoon, we took the Ketanya Boat Tour to Little Fogo Island (an island off an island, off another island). We were thrilled to spot a monster of an iceberg (10 stories tall and 700 ft. below the surface) and the captain quickly took a vote to see who wanted to get a closer look- the iceberg won. We were blown away by the majestic beauty and captured some epic photos before the fog rolled in. On the boat, we met a couple from Montreal who were visiting Fogo Island to celebrate the woman’s fiftieth birthday, yet not staying at the Inn. She had two birthday wishes- to see an iceberg and to eat dinner at the Fogo Island Inn. The Inn was full and was not able to give them a reservation for dinner. No problem- from the boat, Paul called the inn and asked if we could invite two guests for dinner. We had a wonderful evening with new friends, raising a glass to turning fifty and celebrating the sighting of a mammoth iceberg. In the bar, after dinner, we met a group of eight Americans, all whom were turning fifty that year including one fellow who shared the exact birthday with Paul- his brother from another mother.

The Fogo Island Inn was perfect! The staff are exceptional, the food is fantastic (local, fresh, creative and with beautiful presentation), the decor is exquisite and every window offers a stunning view. I loved the Inn’s two Newfoundland dogs, Make and Break, who visit the lobby every morning. The quilts are all handmade and we ordered one for our ski chalet as my birthday gift.

Once again, we got lucky with the weather, with warmer than normal temperatures. The weather can be variable- fog, sun, rain, repeat. Bring layers and a raincoat. I loved the cool nights with our window open and the waves crashing onto the shore. I loved how a tray with hot coffee and scrumptious muffins was waiting at our door every morning when we woke up. Paul loved the fancy toilet with the heated toilet seat and insisted on getting the same brand when we renovated our master bathroom at home. We loved every minute at the Fogo Island Inn and can’t wait to return!

Back in 2006, when we travelled to Newfoundland with our kids, after spending a week in Trinity, we drove across the island for a week in Gros Mourne National Park. On the way, we drove through Gander and I picked up the book, “The Day the World Came to Town: 9/11 in Gander, Newfoundland”.  The stories from that book are now brilliantly told in the musical production, “Come From Away”. If you haven’t seen it, put it on your “to do” list.

We rented another lovely cottage- this one was called Monty’s Shorescape and it is in Neddies Harbour, within Gros Mourne National Park. Located on the west coast of Newfoundland and near the town of Deer Lake, we were excited to experience another beautiful piece of Newfoundland. Our first excursion was to Western Brook Pond, an inland fjord that could be one of the most beautiful places on Earth. We parked our car and hiked the 3-km trail into the pond. Moose were everywhere and we soon lost count of how many we saw. On the day we went, it was overcast with intermittent showers. We decided to take the boat trip, despite the fog. No sooner had the boat pulled away from shore, when the clouds parted and the sun peaked out. In no time, it was a glorious day and we began shedding our layers. We were blown away by the beauty of the landscape around us. Everywhere we turned was a postcard view.

We booked a guided hike up Gros Mourne Mountain with Gros Mourne Adventures. On all of our adventure holidays we try to go on the iconic hike of the region. Paul and Ross stayed behind to go kayaking, as we felt that Ross might be too young (age 7) for this hiking challenge. Jack (age 10) and Lexi (age 12) were game for the 16-km round trip hike, up and down the mountain. The hike leader took one look at Jack, who was quite small for his age and determined that this should be a private hike. He brought along a guide-in-training, figuring that we would be slow. The beginning of the trail through a forest was fairly flat, and I thought to myself, how hard could this be? Soon we were scrambling up a steep trail, above the tree line, carefully navigating loose scree and using our hands for stability. Jack led the charge, with Lexi right behind him. The guide-in-training struggled to keep up, surprised at the fast pace that small and mighty Jack was setting. Never judge a book by its cover- Jack and Lexi were both strong cross-country runners and ranked in the top-ten for their ages in Toronto. In no-time we were at the moon-like summit, taking a photo to prove we made it. While our group sat and enjoyed our picnic lunch, Jack hopped from boulder to boulder, itching to continue. It was another beautiful July day and the views on our descent were outstanding. We stopped at a mountain lake and the kids waded-in, cooling off their legs. Our family often debates what is harder- the uphill or the downhill and today it was the downhill. Our legs were tired and wobbly, as we made our way back to our car, proud of our hiking achievement.

I have enjoyed my trip down memory lane, remembering and sharing the highlights of our travel to Newfoundland. I encourage all of my friends to, “come from away” and visit Canada’s most eastern province, where the scenery is spectacular, where the food is divine, where the locals make you feel at home and where you will want to return again and again. It is a special place!