{"id":1004,"date":"2019-04-12T17:12:08","date_gmt":"2019-04-12T21:12:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/liannehill.ca\/?p=1004"},"modified":"2019-04-12T17:12:14","modified_gmt":"2019-04-12T21:12:14","slug":"memories-of-newfoundland","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/liannehill.ca\/?p=1004","title":{"rendered":"Memories of Newfoundland"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Family trip 2006<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

In July 2006, our family travelled to Newfoundland for an adventurous family holiday. Little did we know at the time, soon Newfoundland would become a place of business and regular visits for Paul for the next ten years and an annual destination for me. In our travels to Newfoundland, we have visited only a small portion of this incredible island. I am often asked for tips on travelling to Newfoundland, however, I can only share and recommend with you the parts that I know. That said, I can tell you this- after you travel to Newfoundland, you will leave feeling like you belong and you will want to return. It is a very special place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The flight from Toronto to\nSt. John\u2019s, Newfoundland is just under 3 hours in length. When you arrive, set\nyour watch ahead 1 \u00bd hours to Newfoundland Standard Time. St. John\u2019s is a small\ncity and the airport is an easy 15-minute drive to downtown. We always\nstay at the Sheridan Hotel. It is well located and predictable. We ask for a room\non the harbour side, as the view is spectacular. Paul has tried all of the\nboutique hotels in St. John’s, yet he always returns to the Sheridan. It is not\nfancy, but it works!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Windswept Signal Hill.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

For most of my visits, Paul had to work for a few days, so I was left to my own devices. One of my favourite things to do in St. John\u2019s is to get outside and start walking. Newfoundland is nicknamed, The Rock, due the very rocky and rugged landscape. The hiking trails around the rocky and dramatic Signal Hill are some of the best in Canada. Beginning at the hotel, I would walk along Outer Battery Road, past colourful clapboard homes and stunning views of The Narrows and St. John\u2019s Harbour. The trail is well maintained, yet there are a lot of stairs and it can be quite wind swept. At one point the path is narrow and there is a steep drop to the water below-thankfully, there is a chain to hold on to! In the late spring, icebergs float by Signal Hill. In the early summer, if the capelin (small fish that whales feed on) are in, and with some luck, one can see whales blowing off shore- magical! I usually walk alone, and have never felt unsafe. One day I walked around Signal Hill and over to the fishing village of Quidi Vidi and then back to the city-centre along a city walking trail. With time on my hands, I just kept going and going, never too concerned that I would get lost. If I ever needed help with directions, a friendly local was always willing to take time to point me in the right direction. In downtown St. John\u2019s, look for the statue of Terry Fox, commemorating the start of his Marathon of Hope. Terry dipped his artificial leg into the Atlantic Ocean on April 12th<\/sup>, 1980 and then began his journey. Also search for the statues of the Labrador and Newfoundland dogs and read the delightful poem, \u201cEpitaph to a Dog\u201d. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The weather can be\nvariable, so bring layers and waterproof hiking shoes. One July, I left Toronto\nwhere there was a heat emergency in effect and arrived in St. John\u2019s to find\npeople wearing winter coats!! Over the two weeks we spent in Newfoundland with\nour kids, we had blue skies and sunshine every day. It was 25 c, and the locals\nwere melting! If you don\u2019t like the weather, just wait five minutes. In Newfoundland they say, there isn’t such a\nthing as bad weather, just bad clothing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One time, Paul and I were in\nSt. John\u2019s in mid-December to attend some company Christmas parties. We spent the morning hiking the rugged East\nCoast Trail and ended up in Quidi Vidi at 1 pm, ready for lunch. We managed to\nget a last-minute reservation at rustic Mallard Cottage, located in one of the\noldest wooden structures in North America and considered one of Canada\u2019s top\nrestaurants. I was thrilled to hear that they were serving brunch for lunch- my\nfavourite kind of meal. Paul and\nI could not decide what to have because everything sounded so appealing, so we\ndecided to share the Chef’s Selection and the Bread Pudding French Toast (we\nhad been hiking all morning, after all). We devoured the delicious food and\nthe casual atmosphere was perfect for us, as we\nwere in our hiking clothes. The decor is so fun, whimsical and homey and the\nvibe is so relaxed. This place is popular and reservations (even weeks in\nadvance) are highly recommended.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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December hike on the East Coast Trail<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

A few days after our\ndecadent feast at Mallard\u2019s Cottage, we were sitting on the tarmac at the airport\nready to head home. After waiting for over an hour to take-off, the pilot made\nan announcement that the airport had just closed due to an intensifying\nblizzard. No sooner had the announcement ended, when I asked Paul to please\ncall Mallard Cottage to see if we could get another last-minute reservation. If\nwe were snowed-in in St. John\u2019s, we had to make the most of it and another\nvisit to this delightful restaurant would quickly turn lemons into lemonade.\nSure enough, there had been cancellations due to the weather and we got a reservation.\nA skilled taxi driver got us through the snow to the restaurant, where we had a\nprivate, candle-lit room with our own wood-burning fire. As the lights\nflickered and a power-outage threatened, we ordered the Chef\u2019s Tasting Menu and\nhad another sumptuous meal that included delectable scallops and succulent cod.\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is hard to have a bad meal in Newfoundland. In fact, St. John\u2019s has become a foodie destination and a few restaurants were profiled on the Anthony Bourdain show, Parts Unknown, that aired just weeks before his death. On this same pre-Christmas visit, we met some local friends at their favourite restaurant, Raymonds, on Water Street. The art-filled dining room is elegant and I enjoyed the circular table for six, where we could all participate in a conversation. Our friends, who are regulars at this restaurant, recommended the five-course tasting menu. Each unique Newfoundland dish was stylishly presented and absolutely delicious. I loved the moose and the cod, however the delicious fresh scallops put the meal over the top! Raymonds is ranked as one of the best restaurants in Canada and is in the top 50 in the world. Other restaurants to include while visiting St. John\u2019s are: Merchant Tavern, Bacalao, Blue on Water and Basho. Be sure to visit a pub and hear a live band playing Newfoundland music. If you love seafood, you will love eating in Newfoundland!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Family hike on the Skerwink Trail<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

We first discovered Trinity Bay and Port Rexton when we travelled to Newfoundland with the kids in 2006. We rented a cozy cottage called Skerwink House in Port Rexton for one week at the beginning of July. As soon as the groceries were put away, we headed out onto the Skerwink Trail, just steps from our cottage to stretch our legs and explore. The Skerwink Trail is considered to be one of the top hikes in North America. This cliff-top hike is not for the faint of heart and this mom had to be clear with her rambunctious boys, that they were to take the dangers seriously. The views are breathtaking along the 5-km trail. We could not believe our luck- the capelin were in and whales were having a feeding frenzy close to shore. We quickly learned how to spot the whales by the mist from their blows. One day we were treated to a whale breaching in the cove behind our cottage- incredible!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Skerwink House<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

We had just lost our old dog Paisley the month before, leaving us with our four-year-old black lab Lucy. The kids really wanted to get another dog, yet two labs in the house had been a lot of dog, so we were considering other breeds! It was on the Skerwink Trail that we crossed paths with a couple from Maine, who were hiking with their two border terriers. We had never seen this breed of dog before and we were immediately intrigued. Here was a small dog, out hiking and enjoying the outdoors. This was the dog for us! Lexi was like a dog with a bone, once we showed a small amount of interest. By the end of that summer, after Lexi\u2019s diligent sleuthing, we found and adopted a border terrier puppy whom we named Happy. Happy loved been out on the trail, yet was just as happy snuggled up on the couch with us watching tv. Happy and Lucy became best friends, and they were the perfect blend of big and small dogs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Just down the road from Skerwink House is one of my favourite inns in the world, the Fishers\u2019 Loft. We have stayed at this inn many times over the years, mostly spending long weekends following Paul\u2019s board meetings in St. John\u2019s, that conveniently coincided with when the kids were away at summer camp. There is so much that makes this inn the perfect weekend getaway destination. The food is exquisite, with freshly caught fish, creative healthy side dishes and delicious homemade desserts.  The rooms are lovely and comfortable, with cozy duvets for chilly nights and tremendous views. I loved hearing the sound of the faraway fog-horn on foggy nights. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The town of Trinity has several fine restaurants, a few shops with local crafts and some outfits for whale watching. We have used Sea of Whales Adventures several times and have always seen whales. This company provides survival suits and uses zodiac boats. The ocean can get rough, so wait for a calm day or bring your seasickness medicine.  We always try to take in a show at the Rising Tide Theatre, and our favourite show is The Pageant, an interactive production that takes you on a historical journey through the town.We love the food at the Fishers\u2019 Loft, however to mix it up we will dine at The Twine Loft in town. A simple and delicious lunch can be found at Two Whales Coffee Shop in Port Rexton. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A short road trip to Bonavista is worthwhile, especially if you grew up singing the song, \u201cThis Land is My Land\u201d with the verse that includes, \u201cThis land is your land; This land is my land; From Bonavista, to the Vancouver Islands\u2026\u201d Visit the replica of John Cabot\u2019s boat, The Matthew. John Cabot discovered North America when he landed here in 1497. Hike around the lighthouse and watch for whales. Take the scenic route back to Trinity and stop by the small town of Elliston where there is a puffin colony with more puffins than you can count. Visit the Random Passage Site, where the movie was made. Before you go, read the fabulous historical fiction book called \u201cRandom Passage\u201d by Bernice Morgan and learn about the early settlers of Newfoundland.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Fogo Island Inn<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

As regular visitors to\nNewfoundland, we were often asked if we had been to Fogo Island. In 2016, we\ndecided it was time to mix it up and make our way to this famous travel\ndestination. It was the year we were both turning 50, so what the heck- YOLO! Located\non an island, off an island, it is a bit of a challenge to get to the Fogo\nIsland Inn. We flew from St. John\u2019s to Gander, where we were met by a driver\nand driven to the ferry approximately 80 minutes away. The ferry ride took\nabout an hour and then there was a 20-minute drive from the ferry to the inn.\nNot too bad, if everything is running on time and the weather cooperates. On\nour way home, we decided to pay a little extra for a thrilling helicopter ride\nfrom the Inn to Gander. We gained several more hours of time on Fogo Island and\none more meal at the Inn- it was worth it! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Until we arrived, I did not know how outstanding the hiking on Fogo Island would be. We hiked every day and each hike was spectacular. My favourite hike was the Lion’s Den hike, with beautiful lookouts. I also loved Brimstone Head\/ Fogo Head, Joe Batt’s Point and Turpin’s Trail West. We hadn\u2019t realized that the hiking trails were not right at the inn\u2019s doorstep and we had not rented a car. No problem, we were loaned one of the inn\u2019s car whenever we wanted to leave the property- pretty awesome! We enjoyed soaking in the rooftop hot-tub at the end of each day and one night we watched a documentary about the making of the inn, in the inn\u2019s theatre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Midsummer icebergs<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

One afternoon, we took the Ketanya Boat Tour to Little Fogo Island (an island off an island, off another island). We were thrilled to spot a monster of an iceberg (10 stories tall and 700 ft. below the surface) and the captain quickly took a vote to see who wanted to get a closer look- the iceberg won. We were blown away by the majestic beauty and captured some epic photos before the fog rolled in. On the boat, we met a couple from Montreal who were visiting Fogo Island to celebrate the woman\u2019s fiftieth birthday, yet not staying at the Inn. She had two birthday wishes- to see an iceberg and to eat dinner at the Fogo Island Inn. The Inn was full and was not able to give them a reservation for dinner. No problem- from the boat, Paul called the inn and asked if we could invite two guests for dinner. We had a wonderful evening with new friends, raising a glass to turning fifty and celebrating the sighting of a mammoth iceberg. In the bar, after dinner, we met a group of eight Americans, all whom were turning fifty that year including one fellow who shared the exact birthday with Paul- his brother from another mother.

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The Fogo Island Inn was perfect! The staff are exceptional, the food is fantastic (local, fresh, creative and with beautiful presentation), the decor is exquisite and every window offers a stunning view. I loved the Inn’s two Newfoundland dogs, Make and Break, who visit the lobby every morning. The quilts are all handmade and we ordered one for our ski chalet as my birthday gift.

Once again, we got lucky with the weather, with warmer than normal temperatures. The weather can be variable- fog, sun, rain, repeat. Bring layers and a raincoat. I loved the cool nights with our window open and the waves crashing onto the shore. I loved how a tray with hot coffee and scrumptious muffins was waiting at our door every morning when we woke up. Paul loved the fancy toilet with the heated toilet seat and insisted on getting the same brand when we renovated our master bathroom at home. We loved every minute at the Fogo Island Inn and can’t wait to return!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Gros Mourne<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Back in 2006, when\nwe travelled to Newfoundland with our kids, after spending a week in Trinity,\nwe drove across the island for a week in Gros Mourne National Park. On the way,\nwe drove through Gander and I picked up the book, \u201cThe Day the World Came to\nTown: 9\/11 in Gander, Newfoundland\u201d.  The\nstories from that book are now brilliantly told in the musical production,\n\u201cCome From Away\u201d. If you haven\u2019t seen it, put it on your \u201cto do\u201d list.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We rented another\nlovely cottage- this one was called Monty\u2019s Shorescape and it is in Neddies\nHarbour, within Gros Mourne National Park. Located on the west coast of\nNewfoundland and near the town of Deer Lake, we were excited to experience\nanother beautiful piece of Newfoundland. Our first excursion was to Western\nBrook Pond, an inland fjord that could be one of the most beautiful places on\nEarth. We parked our car and hiked the 3-km trail into the pond. Moose were\neverywhere and we soon lost count of how many we saw. On the day we went, it was\novercast with intermittent showers. We decided to take the boat trip, despite\nthe fog. No sooner had the boat pulled away from shore, when the clouds parted\nand the sun peaked out. In no time, it was a glorious day and we began shedding\nour layers. We were blown away by the beauty of the landscape around us. Everywhere\nwe turned was a postcard view.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The summit- we made it!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We booked a guided\nhike up Gros Mourne Mountain with Gros Mourne Adventures. On all of our adventure\nholidays we try to go on the iconic hike of the region. Paul and Ross stayed\nbehind to go kayaking, as we felt that Ross might be too young (age 7) for this\nhiking challenge. Jack (age 10) and Lexi (age 12) were game for the 16-km round\ntrip hike, up and down the mountain. The hike leader took one look at Jack, who\nwas quite small for his age and determined that this should be a private hike.\nHe brought along a guide-in-training, figuring that we would be slow. The\nbeginning of the trail through a forest was fairly flat, and I thought to\nmyself, how hard could this be? Soon we were scrambling up a steep trail, above\nthe tree line, carefully navigating loose scree and using our hands for\nstability. Jack led the charge, with Lexi right behind him. The\nguide-in-training struggled to keep up, surprised at the fast pace that small\nand mighty Jack was setting. Never judge a book by its cover- Jack and Lexi\nwere both strong cross-country runners and ranked in the top-ten for their ages\nin Toronto. In no-time we were at the moon-like summit, taking a photo to prove\nwe made it. While our group sat and enjoyed our picnic lunch, Jack hopped from\nboulder to boulder, itching to continue. It was another beautiful July day and\nthe views on our descent were outstanding. We stopped at a mountain lake and\nthe kids waded-in, cooling off their legs. Our family often debates what is\nharder- the uphill or the downhill and today it was the downhill. Our legs were\ntired and wobbly, as we made our way back to our car, proud of our hiking\nachievement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I have enjoyed my\ntrip down memory lane, remembering and sharing the highlights of our travel to\nNewfoundland. I encourage all of my friends to, \u201ccome from away\u201d and visit\nCanada\u2019s most eastern province, where the scenery is spectacular, where the\nfood is divine, where the locals make you feel at home and where you will want\nto return again and again. It is a special place!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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In July 2006, our family travelled to Newfoundland for an adventurous family holiday. Little did we know at the time, soon Newfoundland would become a place of business and regular visits for Paul for the next ten years and an annual destination for me. In our travels to Newfoundland, we have visited only a small…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_hide_featured_image":false,"_jetpack_featured_image_duplicate_dismissed":0,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[14],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1004","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-travel"],"yoast_head":"\nMemories of Newfoundland - Happy Tales<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/liannehill.ca\/?p=1004\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"liannehill99\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"16 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/liannehill.ca\\\/?p=1004#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/liannehill.ca\\\/?p=1004\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"liannehill99\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/liannehill.ca\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/fe9d362f2c76d404db916d975a8de17f\"},\"headline\":\"Memories of Newfoundland\",\"datePublished\":\"2019-04-12T21:12:08+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2019-04-12T21:12:14+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/liannehill.ca\\\/?p=1004\"},\"wordCount\":3173,\"commentCount\":0,\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/liannehill.ca\\\/?p=1004#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/liannehill.ca\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2019\\\/04\\\/IMG_3225-1024x768.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Travel\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/liannehill.ca\\\/?p=1004\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/liannehill.ca\\\/?p=1004\",\"name\":\"Memories of Newfoundland - 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